Xanthan gum increases the viscosity of liquid products. It is allowed in the specifications of organic cosmetics. It is non-polluting and harmless. Xanthan gum is primarily used to make gels. It can be incorporated into the aqueous phase either cold or hot. The best way is to heat the aqueous phase slightly and then add the xanthan gum gradually and in a shower. Mix well with a whisk until the lumps disappear. To obtain a fluid gel, the xanthan gum will represent less than 1% of the volume. To obtain a thick gel, 2% is required.
This so-called "transparent" version is the most sought after because it does not influence the colour of your compositions. For example, your gel will be truly transparent.
You can very simply make a soothing eye contour gel from a cornflower hydrolate. In this strictly aqueous gel, you can perfectly well add a maximum of 1% of EO (for example, pistachio for swollen eyelids).
With the same intention, a fluid cream base may also be suitable.
The other possible application of this xanthan gum is to integrate it into a light emulsion (of the oil-in-water type), i.e. in the presence of a significant aqueous phase. Its role will then be to stabilise the emulsion and above all to give the cream an additional quality of softness and smoothness. In this case, dilute up to 0.3% in the aqueous phase.