Oil-in-water emulsifier for fluid emulsion, granules
C14-22 alkyl alcohol + C12-20 alkyl glucoside
Natural emulsifier specifically developed for the manufacture of milks and lotions. It is recognised by the organic cosmetics labels. You will use it to obtain a very fine and stable lotion.
Directions for use: the emulsifier is melted into the oil phase of the preparation (oil and oil-soluble ingredients: waxes and butters will determine the fluidity). The recommended dosage is 1 to 5% in the oil phase. The aqueous phase is also heated (distilled water, hydrolat... and water-soluble ingredients: the addition of xanthan gum is recommended as an additional stability factor) to around 60°. The two phases are mixed together by shaking vigorously with a small whisk.
At the end of the preparation, add 1 to 3% of essential oil if necessary.
The addition of a natural antioxidant (vitamin E tocopherol) and a natural preservative (potassium sorbate) is necessary.
General tips for successful emulsification
- Use sterilised pots and utensils
- Weigh the ingredients separately
- Heat the water phase and the oil phase separately in a water bath (around 60°C)
- When the oil phase is well melted, whisk lightly to make the mixture more homogeneous (incorporating the emulsifier and, depending on the recipe, cocoa butter, beeswax, etc.)
- If you have added ingredients such as urea or xanthan gum, stir to make the water phase more homogeneous
- Then slowly and progressively pour the water phase into the oil phase (water-in-oil emulsion) or vice versa (oil-in-water emulsion), whisking continuously until the preparation has cooled down to the consistency of whipped cream.
- When the temperature of the cream drops to 40°, you can incorporate the last additions (essential oils, vitamin E, preservative...). Whisk.
The two types of emulsion
There are two types of emulsion. O/W emulsions (oil-in-water) and W/O emulsions (water-in-oil). Depending on the type of emulsion, a cream behaves differently on the skin. W/O emulsions (water-in-oil) are characterised by small spheres of water caught in the middle of a continuous oil phase. They are typically protective creams. O/W emulsions are characterised by small spheres of oil trapped in the middle of a continuous aqueous phase. They are easily rinsed off. They are typically nourishing creams, with a large water phase that moisturises the skin and a small oil phase that nourishes it.
Be careful! The ratio between the water phase and the oil phase does not determine the type of emulsion (a cream with 40% oil phase and 60% water phase can be an O/W emulsion as well as a W/O emulsion). Only the nature of the emulsifier should be taken into account. 40% oil phase and 60% water phase seems to be a good average for a light and unctuous cream. For very dry skin, it is perfectly conceivable to reverse this ratio.